My favourite part about backpacking

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My favourite part!!
Agh there is so many!!

Firstly how you can turn up in a place where you know nothing about it or the people or anyone who is there and leave with a ton of friends.

Secondly that when you say “I’m going to have a quiet one for my tour tomorrow” YOU NEVER DO!!!

Thirdly!! People are so happy on the road. No matter what they are doing they are smiling because they are doing the best thing anyone can do with their time – which is to explore our world we have been given.

And lastly!!! Because I get to share my experience with so many others who are on the same path as me.

So much love and peace to all you guys xxxxxxxx

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Us letting lanterns go in river of Hoi An with fellow travellers’

Ho chi Minh city

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Arriving in ho chi minh city (Saigon) was a breath of fresh air in comparison to the dirty streets of Phnom Penh.
We arrived early morning and hurried to our couchsurfer’s home in district 3 so we could drop our bags and relax.
Saigon is so much cleaner than Cambodia. It’s visible from the moment the bus stopped. Life seems more ordered here. But alot more traffic, yet like in all Asian cities the drivers are all kind and no road rage is shown while everyone cuts each other off. I now can cross a road confidently! I know the motorbikes will go around me so you just got to go or you’ll be waiting for hours. At the pedestrian crossing nothing will stop for you either.

Lydia – our Indonesian host in Saigon opened her home to us. She lives in a small but large to us, studio apartment in district 3 of the city. It’s very modern and includes a western shower and toilet!!!!!
There’s a beautiful terrace and even though there is only one couch we are sharing the floor. On our arrival she made us a fruit buffet! Then for lunch a delicious Indonesian noodle dish. Her friend who is also her belly dancing teacher was over and showed us some of her beautiful belly dancing outfits. Lydia is also a designer and has some amazing outfits.
We decided to dress up really pretty, hair, makeup, dresses and the lot to go clubbing!
It’s ladies night in the city on Tuesday’s with free cocktails so it was a great night. Lydia has a daughter. Her name is Sophie. Her husband lives 4 hours away and works for the united nations so her family is always moving. She has lived in indonesia, Malaysia, Germany, London and is soon to move to Peru. Little Sophie speak so many languages and is an amazing child! I painted her face as a kitten and a little dalmation dog.
The life I would love! After meeting Lydia I really want to concentrate on learning languages and work for the united nations or be a diplomat!

We pulled an all nighter. The night life is fantastic in Saigon. I met up with my brothers good friend from when they were kids. He works as an English teacher now in Saigon.
To battle the hangover I attempted to make vegemite on toast using a wok. It turned out “ok”. Wok toast with cheese is the best though!!

Another thing about saigon I noticed is that Facebook is banned. So everyone goes through opera but apparently the government done this to protect his people.

Saigon set a great first view of Vietnam and so far I think Vietnam is going to be one of my favourite countries!

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My little kitty I painted

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I made vegemite on toast using a wok

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The group having lunch

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Ready to head out with some great friends!

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At Lush

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A really cool picture!!

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Drinking beer on the street getting pumped for a good night

Volunteering at Soi Dogs

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You can’t change the world by helping one dog, but you will change the world for that one dog.

“The greatness of a nation and it’s moral progress can be judged by the way it’s animals are treated.” -Mahatma Gandhi

-Written on the wall at Soi Dogs

The experience at Soi Dogs animal shelter was one I will always remember. It was short but meaningful.

To see all these animals getting the help which they deserve. Seeing how a dog that had gone through so much torture and heartbreak with our human species can still run to me and jump for joy that I might pat him or take him out for a walk.

As volunteers we were responsible for human contact with all the animals except the dogs under going cancer treatments or that had infectious skin diseases.

We lay in the puppy pen for awhile getting trampled by over excited pup’s who just wanted to play ball.
This is where I was introduced to Shiver, a dog that must of gone to hell and back in it’s lifetime. Shiver is scared of every human even the people that have worked at soi dogs for years. She will dart from side to side trying to get further away from humans. She is kept in the puppy cage because she is too shy to rough it with the big dogs but the soi dogs leader said that she teaches the young pups how to behave which is why she is allowed to stay there.

I left the girls and Shiver in the pups pen and ventured to the older dogs pen. This is where I met Luna. A slightly blind, pure white furred dog that was so beautiful I wanted to take her home with me right then and there. She lay with me under the trees and was so lovable.

After the fun with the pups we got down and dirty with the big dogs. Crazy, silly, barking, mud rolling big boy dogs. We walked many dogs around the lake and back. We gave as many attention as we could. We were all given a leash and medical kit with eye wash, tweezers and tick powder for the dogs. We found a few ticks and removed them. Apparently ticks are a huge problem in Thailand.

We found Tim Tam, Kathryn’s dog that she sponsors monthly. She is adorable. We got to wash her along with many, many, many other dogs!

We visited the cats hospital and played with them for awhile, tricking the kittens with toy mice.

All in all it was a great day at Soi Dogs but the smell got to me in the end. Kathryn loves animals and doesn’t notice the smell but for me it was too much.

Tip came to pick us up from Soi dogs which is located near the Phuket international airport, about 10kms from the village we were staying at. I sat in the back of Tip’s truck and said goodbye to Soi Dogs.

If you would like to volunteer or sponsor a dog please do it really is worth every cent. We saw a puppy get adopted by a local thai woman and her American husband and he was so happy to go with his new family. Soi Dogs doesn’t charge for adoption, only for shipping charges if the dog is to be shipped out of Thailand, and they make sure the dogs go to good homes.

WWW.SOIDOG.ORG

The life within a Thai village

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Chat chai. I wont forget that name or the precious times spent there.

At the top of Phuket province far from the crowded sands of Patong and Phuket town lies a deserted beach with a few old fisherman trailing the beach by foot looking for their dinner.
The village is just before Sarasin bridge and at the top of Phuket province.

Walking the streets you see the way Thai’s really live. Washing their clothes in basins, their chickens next to them in cages, their children playing in the dirt with elastic bands. It’s so beautiful. You go to restaurants in the front yards of their houses where they cook your meal where they cook for their family. Their children bring out your meal with a complimentary salad of leaves, cucumber and ice.

Walking along the Sarasin bridge fisherman are catching fish with old fashioned nets with weights hanging from them. The fish they catch they put right on the fire to sell to passer bys. Their family lying on a blanket next to him sleeping or simply laughing with each other. Groups of thai ladies sit playing dominos out the front of their home. We go to an Internet cafe which is just a room at someone’s house with 5 computers in it, only 2 have Mouses connected and work. The young thai girl runs to her room only meters away and returns with her own laptop which she let’s us use.

We went to the local factory where the village work and make beautiful batik clothing and sheets. When I say factory I mean the front yard of a house where tables are set up with white sheets and young and old alike paint in wax then colour it in with water paints from little cut off bottles of pepsi. They then chemical the fabric, wash the fabric and boil the fabric so that the wax falls off. The end result is a beautiful hand made shirt, hanky or a piece for a frame.
This is the village’s bread winner you could say, the best in all of Thailand. Their famous trade. But from what we saw no tourists know as we were the only ones there besides the workers. The owner took photos of us looking at the fabric perhaps for advertising. The group was working on pieces for a big buyer in bangkok. The kids would come and paint in their breaks from school and blend the colours so beautifully it was amazing the artwork that was so quickly produced with so much variations of colour and light.
I advise you to look up the history of batik and visit this village and perhaps have a go at making it yourself!

The Russian with the yellow eyes.
A man we met on the beach the other day who had rode up from Phuket decided to move here to finish his thesis. He is staying in one of tip’s rooms. Tip also has a restaurant in the village. We met the yellow eyed Russian as we were riding our bikes down the deserted forest paths looking for a new beach to check out. He was one of the only other tourists we saw in the village and we got to talking about his life as an astronomer and shared a meal.

The speed bumps here are interesting. The speed bump is a simple thick rope laid across the road, wearing in some places, completely flat in others.
The people here ride mostly on motorbikes that have little rafts attached to the side with wheels which hold their family members or cooking utensils for the market under the bridge.

The market under the bridge. Where we spent most nights, eating, laughing, learning thai and testing foods we didn’t know. My favourite would have to be the Thai twist on a snow cone. They had 6 different jars holding pineapple pieces, green sweet bread cubes, something that looked like fish eyes, black smelly jelly, white smelly jelly and pumpkin pieces. The lady used a small, foam bowl and we chose our fillings. I chose the sweet green bread and pineapple. She then put sugar syrup on top. She took a huge block of solid ice over to this old fashioned machine where she fixed the ice in place, put my bowl underneath and started turning the machine. It made shaved ice perfectly. We then chose from 5 bottles of liquids for the topping. Don’t ask me what they were, I don’t speak thai but to say the least – delicious. I chose green and red and she then asked, “Milk?”
And of course I say WHY NOT! I think it may have been condescend milk but on top it just finished off the Thai snowcone perfectly. My absolute favourite dish so far!

It is an amazing feeling sitting in the back of a pick up truck, your hair blazing in the wind as you go 100km down a highway. Your backpack lying at your feet and police men waving to you as you go.

Reflections in the window of a Malay train

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Sitting comfortably in my window seat peering into the dark as the Malaysian landscape passes me without a thought.

A late passenger and his mother place themselves in the empty seat in front of me. The little boy was ever so eager to have the window seat and immediately claimed it as his own, kneeling and hands lightly gripping the window.

He starred onward. It was dark outside but it seemed he could see beyond such darkness of night.
This beauty of a child is so tame and exuberant.

His little black hat upon his head led me to think he was a Buddhist child.

• • •

Every sound catches his attention, every object a new friend. Train stations passed without a second glance.
He is simple. He knows the meaning to life. He understands why the moon shines. He doesn’t question her guiding hand or rules. He trusts the unknown for he is pure and in his small world he is un touchable, he is simply here.

Just be.

“Be
Believe
Become,” said Lana.

A little excerpt from my personal journal.

Across the sea to Koh Phi Phi….

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We left KL in a rush. Bags dragging along side after scoffing down a delicious Mi Goreng that equaled about 90c Australian. Pulling out the chilli’s as I ate as quick as possible so we wouldnt miss our train to Hat Yai.

We cut it so absolutely close that the train driver was yelling. Our wonderful hosts, Alin and Syah, drove us to the train station. The next mere 15 hours was over air conditioned, 2nd class comfort. At the border we had to all get out to get out stamps for Thailand only allowing us 15 days as we crossed overland but once we go to Cambodia and then cross back in we get another 15 days. Everything in Asia is over air conditioned. You go from boiling to freezing in minutes, I carry a jumper around just in case.

At Hat Yai we got ripped off double pay on a mini bus to Krabi town.

“650 ฿.” said the pushy Thai man.

I asked the English girl beside me how much she payed and she said the same so I thought it was normal as we didnt know the AUD to BAHT conversion rate yet. Well we all got ripped off besides the Swiss guys who paid 300 ฿ for the overly cramped, highly air conditioned, very mini van to Krabi.

At Krabi we got a cheap room for 150 ฿ – cheap as we would get in thailand we learnt later. We explored the fairy lit streets to the food market by the river. In the early hours of the morning we decided it would be a fabulous idea to dye my hair red. I then resembled a crab perhaps that fits in well in Krabi.

From Krabi we caught a ferry to Phi Phi – the island of no smoke, no motorbikes, no cars, just my two big feet! We realised it was quite touristic but still so beautiful. We scored a room for about 333 ฿ a night which was apparently good for Phi Phi. We have all been sharing a bed for the last week. We know each others habits and moods and are beginning to feel like sisters.

Our room smelt like old socks and mould. Indicating from the mould on the walls we realised it wasnt our old, dirty socks that made our noses cringe. That night we watched a movie, The Adventures of Tin Tin, on the roof top of Banana Bar with free popcorn and a delicious cocktail in hand. Then to the 7 11 for beer and the like and onwards to the crazy beach party nightlife. About 7 clubs lined up all spilling out onto the sand with Westeners on hand to speak English, Thai fire twirlers we later found out didnt like French boys and so much body paint. We eventually ended up in the water dancing and swimming. A sunken Long tail boat was a couple of metres away so we ventured out and danced on top of that. The moon shone so bright and since the full moon party was on in Koh Phangnan many people had left the island so the clubs were quiet. The group we were with was a mix of foreigners. The French boy had a go at Thai boxing with the fire twirlers and Lana ended up with a black lip. She looks like she has a moustace. It keeps us entertained on long bus rides. I met some amazing people on Phi Phi. Strangers become friends. People if you let them will open your eyes to so many things which is hidden in our minds.

In the morning we ventured to the outside beaches of Phi Phi main island. Lana had gone missing so we had to go without her – but found her later before sunset.

Myself and Kat went to Monkey beach where the monkeys seem unbelievably calm as they munch on the bananas at their feet. But if you get to close, which I did, they turn into a rage and throw their long, dangly arms in the air and run at you! Three monkeys were my enemies there.

After we went snorkelling between two huge cliffs where you could see for miles in the beautiful, clear waters that are Koh Phi Phi. The water tastes different here, less salty perhaps. I found another enemy, the Sea Urchin. Whilst in the Solomon Islands back in 2007 I stood on one while far out from the main land and the pain was unbelievable. We were staying on a local island with nuns and the local fisherman said that when they step on an urchin they get a rock and smash the spikes deep into the flesh of the foot and wait for the body to reject them, slowly. So to put it simply I stayed far, far away from the sea urchin’s of Phi Phi.

We hopped back on the beautiful, Thai longtail boat that boasted beautiful flowers around its tail and of course the Thai flag and set off to “THE BEACH”. My favourite movie staring my favourite actor Leo d’caprico. Myself and Kat walked his footsteps looking for the spots in the movie which different things happened. There is NO waterfall by the way. The beach is super small, yet astoundingly beautiful. We ventured to the other side where more boats of tourists were arriving and the island felt quite cramped. Also there are no marijuana plants either. We devoured pineapple pieces on the long trip back to the main Island.

Leaving Phi Phi was a sad moment but onwards to Phuket we had decieded. The ferry set out from Phi Phi with really rough seas. We had chosen a seat right at the front of the ferry. I went outside to lie on the deck, sun tan and read my book. Titled “Self” by Yann Martel – great book. While I lay a stranger from Holland sat and asked to eat his lunch with me and we spoke about his life on Phi Phi as a DJ. Then out of no where the sea roared and we were covered in water nearly falling into the sea. We went back in to Lana and Kat and watched in horror as people around us were vommiting up their breakfasts. It’s a terrible site to see so many in disraught. We decided outside would be better so we sat in the cold for an hour till we eventually got to Phuket pier.

Our couchsurfer, Topsi, a Thai girl who is a dive instructer in a village far from Phuket is our host for our days here in Phuket province. The taxi to her place which is about 100km’s from Phuket’s tourist bonaza cost us 800฿ – no amount of my stern bargaining could lower the price. The nerve of the driver to ask for another 200 ฿ on arrival.

At Topsi’s we met her hilarious friends. Tip, or as I call her Tippy Tip Tip, is a mother of 2 who lives in the forest. She hired us her motorbikes for our time here for a mere 100 ฿ each (around $3) which we are using to venture about this small, remote village. It’s so nice to see no big McDonalds and all the shops close at 8 or 9pm. She is so kind to open her room to us. We are sleeping on the floor which is suprisingly comfy. The place where we will volunteer, Soi Dogs, is quite close perhaps 10km’s and we will volunteer here a few days. Its an animal shelter where Kat sponsers a dog called Tim Tam. When they found Tim Tam she had maggots growing in her ear. Now she is super healthy!!

Today we will ride our motorbikes along the beach path all the way to Phuket city, to Patong beach perhaps. Check out what the tourists are all so fussed about then return to our beautiful traditional Thai village. There is an imaginary lane for us on the far left. The traffic here is tame, un organised but there seems to be no accidents or anger on the roads. Same in Malaysia where the cars and motorbikes would so easily and nicely just merge in cutting each other off but no anger was displayed, it was just normal.

As we ride down the highway we get the occasional slow down and stare, the young boys yelling and whistling and of course the trucks beeping to get out of the way!

It has only been one night in Phuket so far and it has been a delightful change from the touristic trail.

Colours and faces of Malaysia

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Colours fill every street of traditional Malay dress, Indian colourful sari’s and even school uniforms.

KL (Kuala Lumpur) is a bustling city that is trying to hold on with all its might to the culture within the towering buildings that now surround it. So much beauty is contained in the streets.

We arrived absolutely buggered! Backpacks in hand and in need of food. We caught the train to Chinatown and found a little street stall off Petaling street to rest ourselves and try some un named foods. It was like a pick and dip buffet with so many locals bustling around. I ended up with more dessert foods then hot foods but the dessert were lovely. They were green and slimy, some resembled donuts, others looked like plastic, one was wrapped in a banana leaf and inside my little banana leaf present was mushy banana (which tasted awesome). EVERYTHING IS SPICY! Even if you ask for the not spicy food they give you something mild because that’s all there is!

I found this graffiti that I loved when I was in KL back in 2008. It was of a girl in a box and it stated “Out of the box” underneath it. I still have the photo from 2008 and i took one of it now in 2012. The contrast is different. Shows the deterioration of something over the years. I’ll post the photos later.

We met later with our couchsurfer host who grew up here in KL. We went to his friends where more couchsurfers from Morocco were waiting then we all went out to a local Indian restaurant where instead of plates you use banana leaves. We were all stuffed from our desserts from earlier so we had a mango lassi (my favourite) and just chatted with everyone.

The next day we were feeling quite adventurous and decided to climb up into the FRIM (Forest …r…i…m – I cant remember) and conquer the canopy walk. We had to get a taxi there because there is no public transport, but taxi’s are super cheap here. At the magnificent forest which is just outside the city we began our walk. About 2 hours said the taxi driver but of course we detoured down other trails in rough terrain and found random friends along the way – monkeys! When we realised our detour was going no where we returned to the tourist trail and started walking up towards the canopy again. So many stairs to say the least. They weren’t just stairs they were giant stairs. I am going to be super fit by the end of this trip. The canopy was amazing it was like a city of ladders lying there in the sky over looking the majestic city. The forest was planted there by people back in the 1920’s though but you would of never of guessed it as it looked so natural to the naked eye. As you walk across these narrow passages in the sky with a net on each side to catch you if you fall. You are hundreds of metres above the forest floor. It resembles a cubby house I would make in the trees. At the other end we decended down the hill past the waterfalls and we watched a group of young Malay teenagers sitting in the water playing, fully clothed. I wanted to join them! Others were sitting on rocks under the shadowing trees in a train washing each others hair with shampoo. One young boy was lying on a towel looking as if he was sun baking and had gym equipment next to him.

We started the long walk back to the main road where we would have to jump up and down frantically for a taxi. After the usual slow of cars, beeping of horns and hilarious “Heeeeelllooo” and “Ahh….. Hiiiiii” from passer bye’s, a car stopped and asked if we would like a lift to KL. He seemed friendly enough and didnt resemble the flaws of a serial killer so with a little hesitation on my part we all jumped in. He informed us he had just got back from Vienna and was going to the city to exchange his euros. He told us how he always tries to give back to travellers as he has been helped so much by locals when he has travelled. As he dropped us off before the peak hour 5pm traffic started we quickly went inside changed into our swimmers and went down to our couchsurfers host’s pool. He lives in an apartment condo thing – but everyone lives in apartment condos here.

Every day around the same time a soft, peaceful rain falls on the city and washes away the humid, stressful day. We swam in the peaceful rain and played with the many french pangi’s that lay around the pool. Our host returned from work at around 7 and his German border returned to around the same time and we all went to a Chinese restaurant for CRABS! I have never had crabs but it was delicious, messy but delicious. The bread was so sweet and used to dip in the cheesy sauce that one of the crabs was lying in. There was rice, spicy greens, more crab, fried prawns in their full shell and so crispy it definitely claimed as my favourite. Chinese tea, buckets of ice and honey lemon drinks filled the table and it turned into a huge feast! I went to sleep happy that night.

The next day though consisted of noodles and trying to be cheap as we bought our ticket to Hat Yai in Thailand which rang in at 48 Malaysian ringet. Which is around 15 AUD (not bad!). We leave Sunday by train on our journey towards Thailand. We havent decided whether to go to Phuket directly where we will be volunteering at an animal shelter or to one of the islands, Phi Phi, Krabi, to enjoy some beach.

Tonight though our host is throwing a party at his place so I better go buy some cheap wine and put on some clean clothes haha. I will post some photos when I reach Thailand.

Selamat tinggal!! 🙂

A night with yellow fever

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Ah jungle fever snuck up on me like a demon!!!

I got the vaccination the day before I left on my big adventure – big mistake
I was completely fine afterwards even ran but after the 5 hour car trip up to the gold coast I was sitting in a restaurant, my tummy rumbling out of hunger so I scoffed my food down super fast.

Maybe that set it off but a wave of dizziness came over me. Felt like I was going to vomit, my ears felt like they were swelling so I couldn’t hear anymore, my body was like an ice cube in an oven – just continuous hot and cold waves. I went back to my friends house and I just lay there with short breaths and pains in my muscles thinking ‘F@#K how am I going to get on the plane tomorrow morning?!’

So I pondered going to the hospital but decided to just TRY and sleep with a bucket next to me.

Woke up in the morning and jumped for joy that i felt better – better enough to get on the plane to kuala lumpur.
Same thing started to happen after I ate breakfast at the airport but popped a couple of strong panadol and got on that plane.

I think it was yellow fever side affects though it could of been anything but it was definitely a scary feeling.

I’d advise you to get the vaccination at least a few days before you leave so you can recover. And don’t get it when you have a cold like I did – though I had no choice.

Now off to the jungle to scare away all those mosquitoes!!!

My entry for the Travel Writing Scholarship!

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delicious tea and coffee on arrival - best ive EVER had

Hey guys! This is a snipit from my mind about my trip to Morocco. I entered it into a Travel Writing Scholarship to be able to win a mentorship with a writer from Rough Guides and go on assignment with him in Singapore, Malaysia and Bali! I know most of my posts are just banter but who knows where this competition could lead me if they think i have what it takes!

Enjoy the sights, smells and raw beauty of Morocco from my mind! Oh and tips/feedback would be great 🙂

Also the photos arent included in the ‘competition’ they are just added for you enjoyment!! 🙂

Seeing the World through Others Eyes – The magnificent life within Morocco

The smell of Tagine filled the room where we lay in the beds of two Moroccan men who had welcomed us into their home which they shared with a large family on the other side of a curtain.

Morocco attracted us for the pure reality of an untouched tourist trail though we discovered much more than a simple destination in this majestic country that intrigued us from the rolling hills of the Atlas Mountains to the utter peacefulness experienced in the middle of the Sahara by camel back.

Arriving in Marrakech we searched the narrow alleyways that descended from the main square into a maze of families cooking in tiny shared rooms they called ‘home’. We followed confusing signs to the Moroccan man’s house all the time receiving confusing stares from the locals. At the end of the alley a small door opened into the lives of a typical Moroccan mid 20’s male living the ‘big city life’. An Arabian prostitute exits one of their rooms in a rush – realising we had arrived a little earlier than expected we stepped outside and played with the many cats that walked the alley.

We left our bags in their bedroom that they kindly insisted we have and then ventured back into the maze as the sun set on a rising chant as the locals sung their echoing prayers into the beautiful, golden sky. When the darkness fell we realised we were the only women in the square. Groups of men stood in circles listening to ancient stories as we watched in awe from the outside of the circle. We were then invited in for a small price of 20 Moroccan ringets. Snakes in wicker baskets and un-obedient monkeys were scattered through the square depicting a scene from my favourite child hood fairy-tale – Aladdin.

Nuts of every flavour and colour laced the sidewalks and poured into the never ending souqs where some of the most friendly people were hiding. Beckoning us into their small shops of natural remedies they showed us clay that when wet turns to red lipstick and substitutes for Viagra for men and women which to the eye just looks like a jar full of sweets.

At day break the echoes of prayers fill the air again and you can’t help to feel a little touched by the heart and soul of Morocco. The rich culture and smells that linger throughout the city from the most hidden parts of the souqs to the open air food markets keeps travellers coming back.

I saw life first hand briefly in the eyes of a Moroccan from sleeping on hand made floors to eating snails off the back of a cart being pulled through the dirt. This is the raw travel experience that really helps you see the world through another’s eyes.

Sunrise in the Sahara

Our friend who showed us around

The food market where locals and tourists ate
Dancing snakes
The snails ….
JARS OF EVERYTHING YOU COULD IMAGINE
spices spices spices
the majestic beauty of light
when haley got a job as a nut seller
our friend who dressed us as princesses
The market by night
Dinner at the market
Sunset in the main square
The end of the alleyway where we stayed
The souqs
morning tea in the Sahara
The kids wanting to play with us in our alleyway